QUOTE GUIDE | SpiritPanda Costumes

Quote Guide
- UNDER CONSTRUCTION -

When filling out a quote form, use this page to help make choices for your fursuit!

Click on images to enlarge them.

How to Get a Quote

Quotes show the exact cost of your project. They are $10.00 USD each and can be purchased through the 'Shop' link above when quotes are open.

You must be 18 years of age or older to apply for a quote.

A Google Form is used for quote applications. That is when you'll be able to give the details of your project such as: fullsuit, partial, digitigrade, plantigrade, fur colors, magnetic features, etc.

Quote requests will not be answered through email or social media.

A valid quote is required in order to apply for a commission slot. Quotes are opened before a commission opening and they are usually open for a few weeks.

Applying for and receiving a quote does not guarantee a commission slot. Commissions are not first come, first served. Please keep in mind that I only take 1-3 projects per commission opening. You may have to apply multiple times to get a spot. Quotes are usually valid for 1 full year (sometimes more) after the quote is received. If a quote expires, it must be updated to be used to apply for a commission. Quote updates are free, but SpiritPanda Costumes will need to be contacted for the update.

If you are looking for general price estimates, please visit the PRICE GUIDE.

Below is a guide that you can follow along while you fill out your quote form. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to reach out via email at spiritpandacostumes@gmail.com.

Now onto the Quote Guide!!

Fabric Details:

This section helps me gather details about the types of furs you'd like used on your fursuit.

I like to stress that not all colors are available in faux fur and even fewer colors are available in multiple fur lengths.
I do my best to choose furs and colors that are decently close to a reference sheet and look good together.

I like to use many different fur lengths the most, but this can mean I have to shave large sections of a suit. Shaving isn't always a good option (especially for shag texture furs and thinner furs), but it's something that can be discussed.

Faux Fur Types -

Beaver/Seal/Super Seal/Half Shag

This usually has the shortest pile when it comes to acrylic fur types - about half an inch. It tends to have a slippery, shiny appearance which is why it has been dubbed 'seal' and 'beaver' fur. It generally has a high fiber density and strong backing. It's great to use on ears, bellies, crotches, toes and fingers if you don't want to shave those areas. Due to its texture and length, wrinkles can appear easily and it can be difficult to make seams and zippers less visible. I personally like shaving this fur to use on faces due to the higher fiber density, but my clippers aren't always happy about it!

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Picture from Howl Fabric

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Picture from BigZFabric

Teddy/Bunny/Rabbit/Short Shag

This is a medium length acrylic fur - generally has a 1 inch pile. It's my favorite type of fur. It's short enough where markings appear crisp without needing to clean them up much and the fibers resist clumping while being worn. I like using this as the main fur type on a suit. It still doesn't come in enough colors, but hopefully that will be changing in the future!

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Picture from Howl Fabric

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Picture from BigZFabric

Luxury Shag/Eco Shag/Shag Fur/Punky Muppet

Luxury shag is by far the most common acrylic fur type. It usually has a pile length of 1.5 - 2 inches. This fur is called 'shag' because it has a clumpy, shaggy appearance. Brushing will help separate fibers, but it doesn't take much to get them to clump up again. This fur will also clump after being shaved. I like using this fur for long accents like hair, cheek fluffs, and other tufts on a bodysuit. Due to how many colors this fur comes in, I will also use it as a main fur on a suit. I prefer to not shave large sections of this fur on bodysuits due to its clumping nature.

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Picture from Howl Fabric

Picture from BigZFabric

Fox/Luxury Fox/Deluxe Fox

Luxury fox is my absolute favorite type of acrylic faux fur. It has a similar pile length to luxury shag (1.5-2 inches) but it has a more realistic texture. It tends to have a slightly rougher texture, guard hairs and doesn't clump much, if at all. Unfortunately, finding unnatural colors in this fur type is very difficult. Deluxe and luxury fox furs have a higher fiber density than just regular fox and can be shaved. Regular fox fur is thinner and is best used for long fur accents and not shaved.

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Picture from Howl Fabric

Picture from FursuitSupplies

Arctic Fox

This isn't a very common fur type, but it has a realistic texture and tends to have a longer pile (2.5-3 inches). The most common colors are black and white.

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Picture from Howl Fabric

Picture from BigZFabric

Monster Shag/Gorilla Shag

An extra long fur type - usually 3.5-4+ inches. It clumps like luxury shag and the fiber density is low with a thin backing. It's great for long hair, manes and extra shaggy areas. Can be found in many colors just like luxury shag. I mostly find this fur on Aliexpress as opposed to US based companies.

The fibers of Monster are placed on the backing in circular clumps while the fibers of Gorilla are more spread out like luxury shag.

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Picture from Howl Fabric

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Picture from Howl Fabric

Flokati

A long, wispy, realistic texture acrylic fur; 3.5 - 4 inch pile length. Comes in very few colors, mostly black and white. Not to be shaved but great for long accents with a lot of flowy movement.

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Picture from Howl Fabric

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Picture from Howl Fabric

NFTech Fur

This is an expensive and rare fur, but it can come in piles as long as 10+ inches. The backing is usually 4-way stretch and sheds like crazy. It's great for hair, manes and mohawks. This company has started carrying many commonly used colors and they sometimes sell leftovers from custom runs. Custom furs can be ordered from them, but it is pricy.

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Pictures from NFTech

Stretch Fur

These furs tend to be short (a little shorter than beaver/seal) and are found mostly from Chinese and Japanese manufacturers. BigZFabric in the United States carries a medium pile stretch fur in a few colors. This fur type is heavy due to the elastic in the backing, but it looks great on bellies/chests/inner legs. You will see it commonly used on eastern Asian kemono style suits.

Pictures from BigZFabric

Picture from Gummy Shark Fabrics

Here are some examples of how I use different fur lengths:

I always shave furs on faces and inner ears. I will often also shave fingers, toes, bellies and inner thighs.

I like to keep bellies and inner thighs on bodysuits short. It's a great contrast from the rest of the suit and shorter furs tend to not mat as easily. I will use a beaver/seal/half shag fur if it's available. If not, then I will shave a teddy or luxury shag fur.

I like using teddy/short shag as the main fur on a suit. It usually goes on the back of heads, on sleeves, torsos, legs and tails. If a color isn't available in teddy or short shag, I will use luxury shag on these areas instead.

Longer furs like luxury shag and fox are fun to use on necks, hair, cheek fluffs, shoulders, chests, elbow tufts and such.

If I have to use luxury shag as the main fur type instead of teddy, I can try to find some longer shag furs to use for accents if the client wants.

Extra Fur?

Fur dye lot (color), texture and length can change over time, even if it's sold as the 'same' fur. I'm not sure if it's due to manufacturers trying to save money or if it's just difficult to keep these things consistent between batches, but this has sadly become more common in recent years.

I'm happy to purchase extra fur for clients and will send it to them with their completed commission in case they may want additional parts made in the future or want to be prepared for possible future repairs.

Anything Else?

Have questions about furs or want to give me more details about what you're looking for? Here's the place to do that!

Head Details:

All heads are made from some kind of foam or flexible plastic. I will either hand carve a head base or 3D print it with foaming TPU filament. I am currently moving to completely 3D printed foaming TPU bases. This will allow me to make client's visions come to life much faster and easier. I can easily make changes to sculpts I've already made or make completely new ones. Foaming TPU feels very similar to EVA foam that is commonly used on cosplay armor. It's flexible, lightweight and sturdy. I'm excited to make this change and save my hands from days of cutting foam with scissors! Hand carving foam hurts my hands very much.

Heads are fully lined with soft, cool and breathable athletic techno scuba fabric.

Heads all have static jaws. Moving jaws are only available through auctions.

The default eye blank type is 3D printed PLA+ following eyes. If you would like flat, 2D eyes, please ask!
Eye mesh is magnetic on following eyes which means it can be removed from the eye blank. This allows owners to have different eye mesh styles that can be swapped out and the mesh can be removed when the head is being cleaned.

Teeth are made from minky fabric (except for Manokits who have resin teeth from DreamVisionCreations). By default, the bottom front row of teeth and 2 top canines are included in the price. If you would like additional teeth, please let me know. I do not make full plush jaw sets yet.

Inside Details -

The default head type is 'pull on' style. This means that the back of the head and neck are fully sewn closed and the head is slipped on like a Halloween mask.

Instead of a closed back, I can add a zipper which allows the back of the head/neck to be opened. This can make putting the head on easier, especially if the wearer uses glasses.

I also need to know if a client wears glasses because I will change the forehead padding in their suit to create more room. This type of suit will always have a zipper opening on the back for ease of wear.

Nose/Beak -

Default style is a nose with no nostrils. I would refer to this style are more 'plush' or 'toony' looking.

Second option is to have nostrils on the nose and these will be open/hollow. This can help a little with air flow in the head. The muzzles on my suits are always hollow, but if noses have open nostrils, air can flow into and out of these extra holes.

Tongue -

All tongues are posable with wire inside of them. They can be permanently glued/sewn into a mouth or they can be attached with velcro.

Choosing 1 tongue will mean it will be permanently attached to the mouth. Choosing 2 or more tongues will mean they will be attached to the mouth with velcro.

The default tongue is smaller and sits behind the teeth.

The second option is a tongue that is slightly longer and sticks out of the mouth. It will create the expression known as a 'blep'.

The third option is an extra long tongue that can be wrapped around one side of the muzzle. Since the tongue will have wire inside, it can be bent into many different shapes.

Hair -

Default is no hair.

The second option is to have a simple, small hair poof. This is usually a stuffed fur pillow that is sewn to the top of the head.

The third option is to have a simple mohawk. This is usually 1 or 2 colors sewn into a long pillow that goes from the top of the head and down the back to the neck.

The fourth option is to have a more detailed hair style. I will only use faux fur for hair styles. Complex styles involve many fur pieces and can usually be styled with hair gel if the fur is long enough.

If you choose a complex style, please try to describe in detail what you're looking for to the best of your ability. Including pictures of other fursuit hair styles helps a bunch! You can email pictures to help me get a better idea. Saying 'please make it look like the reference sheet' isn't super helpful as drawn hair doesn't perfectly translate to real fur hair.

Velcro Eyelids -

I use velcro for all of my eye liners. If you choose to not get eye lids right away, they can always be made later.

Why velcro and not magnets? Many reasons!

- Velcro is VERY strong. Lids cannot be removed easily and cannot come off when throwing a head around.

- You're not stuck with only 1 expression with each set of eyelids. They can be moved all over the eye for tons of different looks!

- You never have to worry about magnets rusting or coming unglued under the fur.

- Velcro is much lighter in weight. I can make lids very thin.

- VELCRO EYELIDS RULE!!

I will only make velcro eye lids for heads that have the normal 'happy' expression because the eyes are open. If your head has a 'grumpy' or 'sad' expression, I cannot make velcro eye lids as it would essentially have permanent eye lids on it already.

Angry eye lids tend to have flat, angled bottoms.

Sassy lids usually have a small concave curve and can have big lashes/eye shadow.

Sad/sleepy eye lids have a big convex curve at the bottom.

I can also make eye lids that cover the entire eye for winks, X's or swirls.

There are many options!!

Additional Features -

LEDs can be added to all 3D eye types. I buy my eye LEDs from this Etsy shop. Check them out to see what colors/types are available! My camera takes horrible dark pictures...apologies!

Picture by SirDrewTheFree

Fans in muzzles can greatly improve air flow and make wearing your head so much more comfortable. I make the fans removable with velcro so that you don't have to worry about getting the fan wet when washing your suit. I usually use fans from DreamVisionCreations, but I will also get fans off of Etsy sellers.

Horns, antlers, big fins, etc. can be permanently attached to heads or they can be removable with magnets. If your suit has large horns, I highly recommend asking to have them removable. This can help greatly with washing and travel.

Anything else?

This section is for adding additional details about your fursuit head. Looking for something I don't have listed? Want me to pay extra attention to certain details? Here's where to let me know!

Plantigrade Bodysuit Details:

Plantigrade bodysuits include feetpaws that are separate from the body, a medium sized canine style tail attached via zipper and no padding in the legs/butt.

The entry zipper will be located on the front of the suit and will either go down the middle or will follow markings somewhere off to the side. I will put the zipper in the location I think I can hide it best. I do not put entry zippers on the back of bodysuits. I also include a cute little rubber zipper pull that looks like the SpiritPanda logo. The neck hole is finished with bias tape.

SEE 'DIGITIGRADE BODYSUIT DETAILS' SECTION FOR MORE INFORMATION.

Anything else?

Here's where you can add more details about your bodysuit! If you're looking for a feature I didn't list, feel free to ask about it here too.

Digitigrade Bodysuit Details:

Digitigrade bodysuits include feetpaws that are attached via zippers, a medium sized canine style tail attached via zipper and polyfil pockets in the legs/butt.

The pockets have zippers so that the polyfil can be removed for cleaning, adjusting and such. Pockets are made with athletic techno scuba fabric.

Wings?

If your character has wings on their body, this is where to tell me!

I make chibi/toony style wings. Extra large, heavily feathered or highly detailed wings are not something I'm interested in making.
Wings can be permanently attached to the bodysuit, but I will almost always recommend having removable wings. It's so much easier to wash bodysuits without wings in the way.
Magnetic wings must be smaller in size. If they get too heavy, the magnets can't hold them up.

However, I can still make removable larger wings! They would be made as a 'backpack'. The bodysuit would have openings and the wings would just slide through.

Magnetic wings can also be worn off of the bodysuit. I include a harness that can be worn under clothing and the wings go on top.

Dorsal fin?

Pretty much the same for wings! Dorsal fins can be permanently attached or magnetic and removable.

My default dorsal fin shape is below, but I can make any shape.

Additional Options -

Detachable Armsleeves for Partial; armsleeves that can be zipped onto the body and zipped off to be worn separately. The sleeves are connected with an elastic strap in the back like normal armsleeves. However, if a design is really complex in the upper arm area, I cannot make the armsleeves detachable. It's really hard to line up markings with zippers!

Detachable Legs for 3/4 Suit; legs can be zippered off of the bodysuit torso and worn separately. I include an extra small lower torso fur panel that is zippered back onto the legs and suspenders can be attached here to keep the legs up. The suit's feetpaws and tail can be worn attached to the legs still.

Internal Storage Pocket in Chest; just a simple pocket sewn into the chest that can hold a phone, cash, cards, etc.

External Zippered Pocket on Hip [long fur only]; a pocket that is sewn into the outside of a hip on a bodysuit and is closed with a zipper. I will only add pockets to areas with long (1.5+ inch) fur to keep the pocket hidden.

Anything else?

Here's where you can add more details about your bodysuit! If you're looking for a feature I didn't list, feel free to ask about it here too.

Additional Suit Parts (for partial suits):

Armsleeves?

Fur sleeves that are worn with a partial fursuit. They are attached by elastic in the back and the tops are finished with bias tape.

Plantigrade Leg Sleeves?

This is the best picture I have, unfortunately. These leg sleeves were sewn onto boxer briefs when they were completed. Leg sleeves can be made in many ways, but these will never have padding in them.

Anything Else?

Here's where you can add more details about getting additional parts for your partial suit! If you're looking for a feature I didn't list, feel free to ask about it here too.

The default handpaws have 4 fingers that are stuffed with polyfil ("puffy paws").

The stuffing in the fingers is contained inside removable pillows.

Default pawpads do not have stuffing in them; they are flat. Pawpads are sewn with an embroidery machine and edges are cleanly trimmed. I do not add satin stitching to pawpad edges.

Default paws do not come with claws.

Handpaws have finished cuffs with cotton bias tape.

Handpaws are not lined on the inside. I include lycra gloves for clients to wear with their paws. I never leave exposed foam or polyfil inside handpaws.

Handpaw Details:

Handpaw Styles

DEFAULT: Stuffed 4 Fingers w/Removable Finger Pillows ("Puffy Paws") -

have 4 fingers, I have a few different 4 finger patterns to choose from.

DEFAULT: Stuffed 3 or 4 Hooves w/Removable Finger Pillows ("Puffy Paws") -

I have not made hoof handpaws yet, but they would be made very similarly to normal handpaws. Hoof-fingers would be made from minky or mochi minky.

Stuffed 5 Fingers w/Removable Finger Pillows ("Puffy Paws") -

almost the same as the 4 fingered paws above, but a thumb is added.

Form Fitting 5 Fingers (no stuffing in fingers) -

these are more like fur gloves. Can have pawpads and claws.

Mochi Minky Stuffed Pawpads?

Do you want polyfil added to the pawpads?

I can lightly stuff them or stuff them a bunch.

Adding polyfil to the pawpads lowers the dexterity of the fingers.

MEGA STUFFED

Lightly Stuffed

Claws?

These will be sewn by an embroidery machine with minky or mochi minky. They will be stuffed with polyfil as well. I can do various sizes and shapes.

**NOTE: The blue ink on these paws is washable ink used to line up the claw slits.

Decorative dewclaws?

They're decorative because you cannot put your fingers or thumb into them. They are added to the handpaws as a decoration. They come with a pawpad that can be stuffed and can have a claw or not.

Anything else?

Want something I didn't list? Describe it in detail here!

Feetpaw Details:

Plantigrade -

Feetpaws are separate from the bodysuit and cannot be attached to it.

The ankles are slim and sometimes lightly stuffed with polyfil.

The feetpaws have zippers on the back to help get them on.

They are fully lined with athletic techno scuba fabric.
**Shapes would be a bit different in the future. I haven't made a plantigrade suit in a few years. lol

Digitigrade -

Feetpaws are zipper attached to the bodysuit.

The heel and ankle are made from foam and stuffed with polyfil.

They are fully lined with athletic techno scuba fabric.

Shoes?

I mostly make feetpaws around slip-on (NO LACES) shoes. Adding shoes makes feet feel very sturdy and comfortable to wear. If you like to dance and run around, I highly recommend having shoes in your feetpaws.

Many clients like Crocs and slip-on Sketchers shoes.

It's VERY important that the shoes you pick have a sturdy opening. If the opening of the shoe is flimsy and bends or folds easily, it will be hard to put on your feetpaws. You will not be able to get your hands into the feet to help put your shoes on.

I can also make feetpaws with no shoes. These are NOT slipper paws. They are the exact same build just without shoes. The soles of the feet would still be pretty solid. I recommend this if you want lighter, slimmer looking feetpaws. I include shoe soles to help make them more comfortable. Please note that your feet may slip around inside of this style of paws. They would not be good for dancing and running around.

Claws?

The default is no claws on the toes.

I can add claws that are made from soft fabric like minky or mochi minky.

Claws are usually hand sewn on. I will sometimes add stitches to the sides of claws to keep them from flopping around or to keep them sitting at a certain angle.

Decorative Dewclaws?

Here's what they look like. It's essentially an extra small toe with a claw and a pawpad.

Type of sole?

Outdoor: full rubber soles -

exactly what it sounds like. Real rubber soles that cover the entire bottom of the foot.

Outdoor: rubber shaped like pawpads -

pawpad shapes cut out of rubber and glued to EVA foam.

Indoor: flat fabric pawpads -

fur and pawpads made from mochi minky or regular minky. No stuffing in the pawpads.

Indoor: large stuffed mochi minky pawpads -

fur and heavily stuffed mochi minky pawpads.

You can choose to have permanent soles on your feetpaws or swappable soles with velcro.

Having swappable soles means that the sole on the feetpaw can be removed and swapped with a different type.

Going outside? Time to put on the rubber soles!

Having a cute indoor photoshoot? Time to show off the beans!
No need for multiple pairs of feetpaws!

If you choose swappable soles, please choose an outdoor type and an indoor type. You can choose additional types for an additional cost. You can have all 4 sole types if you want!

Hooves can only have flat fabric soles or full rubber soles.

Anything else?

Here's where you can add more details about your feetpaws! If you're looking for a feature I didn't list, feel free to ask about it here.

Tail Details:

The default tail style is a medium canine type tail.

All tails can be worn with belts. I make a hidden belt sleeve behind the tail cap.

No need to worry about a belt loop breaking and it makes the tail sit snuggly against the wear's body.

I highly recommend still wearing a belt with your tail even if it is zipper attached to your bodysuit. A belt will provide a lot of support and will help greatly with the wag!